| Ethiopia Travel & Tour Information
The
Maartens from South Africa
Before
leaving for
Ethiopia
, we had the feeling that something out of the ordinary was
awaiting us. We are somewhat addicted to unusual and adventurous
undertakings, but this time we intuitively knew that we would also
encounter some sobering and thought-provoking things.
Most
people think of
Ethiopia
as a place of famine, poverty and hardship. We were no exception
to the rule. We knew that we would not be able transfer our
personal comfort zones to
Ethiopia
. Nevertheless we left
South Africa
for
Ethiopia
in a state of excitement and eagerness.
I
wanted to do some research for a stage play and a novel on
Ethiopia
. During the weeks preceding our trip, we had read and studied
everything on
Ethiopia
we could lay our hands on. This, by the way, is an approach that
we would like to recommend to everybody who plans to visit
Ethiopia
. We would have liked to spend a month in
Ethiopia
, but we had but a week to savour the historical route. We needed
the guidance and know-how of people who knew Ethiopia from the
inside out: its history, the best sites for the research we had in
mind, bookstores and books, the kind of accommodation that makes
for a good night’s sleep. We needed a tour company run by
Ethiopians who knew the pitfalls, the risks, the food, the culture
and the magic of their own country.
We
surfed the Internet and came upon the glowing testimonials of
tourists who had chosen Fest Ethiopia Travel and
Tours
as their tour operator in
Ethiopia
. Without exception those who had been there and done some of the
things we intended doing, focused on the expertise, integrity and
professionalism of this company.
That
was it. Via e-mail we made contact with Fest Ethiopia Travel and
Tours
. We told them what our interests were, and what we needed. We
informed Fest
Ethiopia
that we were two old troopers who wanted to experience the real
Ethiopia
instead of sundowners on the patio.
Every
letter was answered. We knew that we were in good hands. So, then,
after an unforeseen delay at Johannesburg International and an
unscheduled landing at Nairobi, we arrived at Bole International
Airport, Addis Abeba more or less in the middle of the night. Mr.
Gizachew, Managing Director of the company, was there to welcome
us: a dignified, soft-spoken and utterly professional gentleman
who, who in the early hours of the first day of our trip, handed
us a big brown envelope containing instructions to every single
guide, as well as vouchers and booking receipts for the admission
clerk at every hotel en route.
We
took that brown envelope from this kindly and uncompromising
perfectionist and we knew: the time-consuming hassles and
unpleasant uncertainties which plague so many tourists during
their travels in African countries, were not to be part of our
itinerary.
From
Bahir Dar and a jungle stroll to some monasteries on Zege
Peninsula on Lake Tana to an after hours visit to the palace
compound at Gonder, our Ethiopian trip was immaculately organized.
The
mystery and the wonder of the rock-hewn churches at Lalibela will
stay with us for long, long time. We will never forget the faces
of the faithful in their creamy white shammas: frail old people in
deep meditation, waiting for Mass. Lalibela felt like a deeply
spiritual homecoming. But it also felt like home – a place of
good food, family, company, laughter and bottomless coffee.
Never
ever miss coffee in
Ethiopia
! As far as we are concerned, the Roha Hotel at Lalibela is
Ethiopia
’s number one hotel. We did spent one night in a five star hotel
in Addis Abeba, but the hotel we remember most fondly and which we
can recommend unconditionally, is the Roha at Lalibela
It
did not bother us in the least. This delay was a bonus to us: we
now had the opportunity to experience the music, the open-air
worship and the joy of the huge gathering of pilgrims who were in
Lalibela for the Ethiopian Christmas and Timkat. Despite the fact
that the first class tourist hotel at Axum was without running
water most of the time, despite the fact that in this hotel my
hubby had exactly 125ml (half a cup) of water for his morning
ablutions, Axum was the absolute climax of the historical route.
Every day now I wear a string of handcrafted beads from the six
century. I bought them in
Axum
. To me it is a humbling experience to touch these ancient beads.
Here, in Bloemfontein, South Africa, I wonder who they were –
these men and women of old; these artists whose precious handiwork
will now once more be passed on from generation to generation. How
deeply I love this continent; how marvelous to be able to feel
these stone and clay beads -- the pride and joy of these people of
old-- against my heart!
Time
and again we relive our visit tot the tomb of king Kaleb near
Axum
. In our mind’s eye we still see the ruins of the palace of the
Queen of Sheba, the obelisk fields and the Queen’s pool before
us. But above all we remember that Sunday at the fence behind the
Tsion
Miryam
Church
when we grasped the hand of Gebre Tekle Haimanot, the solitary
monk who has now been guarding the Ark of the Covenant for nine
years and who will do so till his death.
As
for Addis Abeba: Ethiopia’s famous injera and wat , the
spectacular dances and lively music at a first class restaurant
with Fest Ethiopia Staff as our kind , generous and considerate
host , was the best – and the most heart–rending --way to end
our tour of Ethiopia. We had no desire to board Air
Ethiopia
’s home-bound plane. We did not want to leave.
(By
the way: The atmosphere inside Ethiopian Airlines long range
passenger carriers is like a hors d’oevre: anyone flying
Ethiopia Airlines is in for some pleasant surprises. )
Ethiopia
is..
•Most
unusual destination we have ever visited.
We
were pampered in unexpected ways. We had outstanding guides in
every place we visited; we had freedom and security;
•Magic
and mystery. It is a mystic place, full of stories, profoundly
spiritual, warm and joyous;
•Different.
One does indeed witness and encounter heartbreaking poverty.
Tourists to
Ethiopia
must be prepared to accept the obligation to tip, reward, care and
donate as part of the culture.
And,
yes: after sunset any tourist does look like a mobile blood bar to
the millions of mosquitoes at Laka Tana. At this malaria hotspot
no chances should be taken. To invest in a mosquito net and then
to use it, to take along some prestik and a cloth or two to
improvise stick-on- keep-‘em-out cotton blinds in front of any
suspicious-looking hole in any wall, to apply repellent and to
invest in white sock (mosquitoes favour black) is something we
really recommend.
We
had expected poverty; we went home inspired, awe-struck and
blessed. We have fallen in love with
Ethiopia
’s archeological and art treasures, its ancient religious
ceremonies, spirituality, warmth... and the best coffee on the
globe. We were on our own; we did not travel with a tour group. So
in every place we had a personal guide whom we could drive round
the bend with all our questions. We went to
Ethiopia
to broaden our horizons. We did and Fest Ethiopia Travel and
Tours
gets the full credit for it. This company’s service is
comparable to the best we have met with in any other part of the
world. Count us in: we are this company’s life-long customers!
Epilogue:
We have a new dream now: to experiment with the ancient Ethiopian
building techniques on our piece of land near
Bloemfontein
.
Hennie
& Maretha Maartens,
Bloemfontein
,
South Africa
.
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